“No, not that one” I often have to explain when I tell someone we’re just back from New Quay.
The assumption is we’ve sampled the delights of Newquay, Cornwall, beloved of surfers, clubbers and energetic sun worshippers.
Yet I mean its maybe less well known, but for us, much more appealing namesake in West Wales.
Perhaps best known for its connections with Dylan Thomas, New Quay is a fabulous destination for families – I have to say that, I’ve been going every year since I was in my 20s.
My first holiday with twin daughters and partner in tow wasn’t exactly restful and to this day I can wince in horror at the memory of a whirl of feeding, changing and crying. Yes, yes that was just me.
But of course as my girls have got older, we have been able to see them enjoy themselves a lot more, thank goodness — here they are on New Quay beach the first year we discovered body boards.
New Quay beach and shops
We love pitching up with windbreak, towels, beach games, a puzzle book or three and not much else. I’m happy to people watch and soak up the rays while my daughters and partner leap about. Our family custom is that a certain someone (Dad) has to eat a rock cake and drink a coffee from the beach takeaway, before falling asleep – all within 30 minutes of arriving. But he’ll inevitably be woken by singing from a church group who lead twice daily activities in the height of summer. Don’t let this put you off – when they were younger, our girls enjoyed joining in – running and jumping about is more the order of the day than any religious fervour.
On a clear day you can see for miles across the bay. On a not so clear day there’s still plenty to keep a family occupied with charming shops (our daughters’ favourite is The Shell Shop) and a lovely walk on the harbour. This is also a great place for dolphin spotting or you can enjoy one of the many boat trips advertised to take a closer look at the plentiful wildlife.
Fish and chips at the Mariner or our preferred stop, The Captains Rendezvous, never fails to disappoint. It’s also traditional for us to visit a number of little art shops, promise ourselves we will definitely buy a print capturing the spirit of New Quay or a nearby scene, then forget all about our pledge until we are back home 150 miles away. Funnily enough we have no such memory lapses when it comes to popping into Second Gear, formerly Stewarts’ Seconds and seeing what bargains are to be had.
Aberaeron
This is our usual haunt when the weather’s not quite up to a beach day. We like to buy a lunch at the Popty bakers then head off for a walk, taking in a small brook and two parks along the way. The harbour is impressive, the sea front less so. Many a half hour has been wiled away in a second hand bookshop or sampling honey ice cream around the corner on the quay. From a very early age, my daughters have marvelled at the houses and other buildings in Aberaeron, with their splashes of colour, debating which is their favourite and what colour they would pick back home. Look out for a farmer’s market too – it may not be the biggest in the world but the produce is lovely and fresh and local.
Felinwynt Rainforest Centre
This has been another compelling (and excellent value) place to wile away the hours when the weather’s not so bright – which is a shame really as the brighter it is, the more you can see! Our daughters have loved seeing the butterflies here and listened attentively to the expert guide – who always manages to be engaging and educational rather than boring. We’ve been several times and haven’t tired of seeing the different species of butterfly or tasting the wonderful cakes in the cafe. It’s six miles from Cardigan so we have tended to then carry on for a mooch around the historic town.
Aberystwyth
Aberystwyth always strikes us as a place that has seen better days, and has the air of faded splendour about it. Perhaps this is why we love it. But it’s still a vibrant town with lots to offer, not least a brilliant university arts centre and book shop, and is set amid dramatic scenery.
If the weather’s fine then we’ll take the cliff railway and walk down into Clarach, before enjoying views of the bay, a snack from a van, maybe some rides on a little fair there, when our children were younger, then a bus ride back into the town. Or we’ll walk along the front, head to the castle and the playground there. The sea front is lined with hotels and B&Bs of different colours, sizes and standards, the pier often appears deserted. In actual fact the Pier Brasserie is a popular destination – we ate there on our last visit – the food was great – freshly cooked and better than we expected from the menu, thinking it would be standard pub fayre. We waited a little while longer than we would have liked, but still left happy.
We’ve also journeyed on the Vale of Rheidol steam trains to Devil’s Bridge and back – this is an undoubtedly pricey activity, with tickets at £14.50 for an adult return and £3.50-£5.40 for children aged over two. But it’s five years now since we experienced it and we still talk about the memory now – specifically the fact that my daughter Melissa swore blind she had counted 50 (yes 50) butterflies along the way.
On a rainy day, we’ll opt for a family matinee at the Commodore cinema. This year we watched Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows Part Two here. We always seem to panic that we aren’t going to get in, turn up far too early, then laugh as there are still plenty of seats left over – even for the boy wizard’s ultimate adventure.
A highlight of our holiday in recent years has been watching a musical at Aberystwyth Arts Centre. The theatre is wonderfully atmospheric and at the front you feel close enough to reach out and touch the actors – or to feel awkward when eye contact locks in. The year before last we lapped up such a sweet production of The King and I, the memory of which is still bound to make us smile. Then last year we were blown away by Chicago – it was amazing – much better than a production I’d seen in Birmingham. This year, sadly Chess didn’t live up to such a precedent. Sure, it was a professional and at times rousing spectacle, but it will remain our least favourite. Its target audience isn’t really families I don’t suppose, and certainly not those with younger children with a shorter attention span.
Mwnt
Oh how I love this place. It’s just the best beach ever. Owned by the National Trust, a sheltered cove is crowned by a beautiful chapel which is said to date from the 14th century. There’s also a small hill to climb (which gives Mwnt its name) which isn’t too much of a feat for children of eight or nine upwards to accomplish. The views across Cardigan Bay are stunning. The beach at Mwnt is magical. We’ve spotted dolphins there more than once. Our girls have laughed their heads off while body boarding here. Each time we go, we kick ourselves for not finding this gorgeous, unspoilt spot earlier. There’s a steep walk down to the shore, I have seen people manage it with a pushchair, but it could be quite a struggle for families with very young children or anyone with limited mobility.